Found some more ruins

Pisaq turned out to be a real gem, we knew that Sunday was a big market day (which is why we did the sacred valley walk the day before) so we got up early and went to explore it first thing. We got there as most people were still setting up shop so we quickly rescheduled it for later and instead headed for the other reason we stayed a few nights here. The extensive number of ruins that are spread out on the mountainsides just outside the village. When we checked in to our hostel we were told that there were two ways of seing the ruins.

1. Walk up to the furthest one (also the highest one) and then down again this would take about 7- 8 hours
2. Take a taxi to the highest point and then walk down which would take about 3 hours.

Since we're yet to experience a spell of 7-8 hours without a long spell of pouring rain, the choice was easy, and we hopped into a cab, having managed to pick up some fresh fruit as snacks for the walk . The ride up was eventful initself, the rains the night before had caused huge land/mud/rockslides which had to be navigated. Some rocks were about half the size of the car we were in. Fortunately, the mountain stayed intact both on the drive up and the walk down.

The ruins that we walked down through were a fairly complete set of Incan sites. There were two 'urban' areas (it only signifies that people lived there, not that they are of any size), a recreational bath, a military complex, a cemetary, storehouses, temples and a lot of terraces used for farming or sometimes just to prevent landslides. (note to Peruvian government: there seems to have been a great deal of knowlegde lost here). These sites were nestled in very protected nooks and crannies of the mountains, so you never really see the next one until you turn a corner, and there it magically appears, and you kind of wonder how you failed to notice it before. But then the path itself requires a lot of attantion, there are long drops, steep stairs, tunnels and ledges that may or may not have wooden railings. But that all aids in cementing the image of the Inca's and their ingenuity and dedication. And their eyes for fantastic spots to settle down in, though they are spoilt for choice.

Once we'd navigated the steep and at the end rain-wet (good call catching that cab) slippery slopes back down to the village, we got lunch and then went shopping for local Peruvian arts and crafts to bring home and adorn the house with when we get back. This was probably the best market we've been to through out our trip so far. Not the biggest one but there was some really nice clothes, statues, blankets, full-size rugs and jewellery on offer, and the fruit was great. So with distinctively less space in our bags we headed to Cusco - again- where we'll cath the early morning bus to Puno and a few days by Lake Titicaca. Wonder if its got any nice beaches...

El Valle Sagrado de los Incas

Actually, the Sacred Valley covers more than just the four ruins found just outside of Cusco that we visited today, it actually includes Macchu Picchu, Ollantaytambo and Pisaq to name a few. But when tourists do a Sacred Vally tour, it usually just includes the ones that we visited today.

Of course, we didn't take no stinkin' tour! We are independent travellers so we were determined to visit the four sites at our own pace. The day started nicely enough as we jumped on a local bus and told the conductor that we wanted to get off at the first of the sites, Tambomachay. The four ruins that we were targeting today are within 8 km of Cusco so we decided that the best way to get around would be by foot. Map in hand, water in our backpack and the shining sun to warm our steps, what could possibly go wrong?

Now I could just go on with some history or story about each ruin, but to be honest, one Inca ruin is pretty much like another and as we started to climb the hill to the first site when disaster struck! It started to rain. No problem we thought as I dutifully took out my rain poncho now affectionaltely dubbed "the tent", it's only 9am, the real rain isn't supposed to start until at least 1pm so this must be a glitch. But this was no glitch. The rest of the day followed the now familiar pattern. While we were walking to the next ruin, the rain thankfully eased up a bit and when we arrived at the ancient, priceless, Inca site, the rain started to bucket.

Nevertheless, we did enjoy our day and the sight of the impressive stones at Saqsaywaman or the labyrinth at Q'enqo made the day worthwhile. And as we sat at Jack's Cafe in Cusco tucking into our sandwiches we both agreed that we had had and amaizing day.

Ollantaytambo to Pisaq

First (no second) Ruins
The next morning we woke up bright and early and packed up our bags and left them at the lovely hostel that had been staying at for the past three nights and headed for the local ruins. We had been scared off checking it out before because the fee advertised at the entrance was S/ 130 (£28) which we thought was a bit much. After speaking with some other travellers, we discovered that the fee included entrance to about a dozen ruins in the Cusco area and is valid for over 10 days. So we coughed up our soles and headed up the ruins.

The ruins themselves were interesting, though writing this in hindsight makes it difficult to accurately describe what we felt at the time as we have seen so many other ruins since. The most impressive bits were the massive stones that they seemed to have quarried and lugged up the side of the mountain (how?) and the many agricultural terraces built into the side of the mountain. My reccomendation would be to check them out if you are in the area.

Peruvian Hot Springs
Some guy who was trying to sell us a tour mentioned that there were hot springs that you could go and bathe in at Calca. Sweet, we thought, muscles aching a bit from all the steps at the Macchu Picchu and Ollantaytambo ruins, it's on the way to Pisaq, our destination for the night, so we'll head there.

After negotiating one local mini-van (S/1.5) and one local bus (S/1), we arrived at the bus station at Calca. On asking around for the hot springs, we discovered that they were actually located 8km up the mountain at a place called Machacancha and we could get a route taxi there for only S/2. We jumped in.

The hot springs were not exactly what we expected but hey, the water was warm, we had a roof over our heads and another experience under our belt. Recommendation: why not :)

Pisaq
After safely negotiating our way off the mountain (another route taxi), we caught another bus to our destination, Pisaq and checked ourselves into the Kinsa Ccocha hostal. The name is the Quecha for Three Cockroaches... an ominous name... nevertheless, I did manage to examine the rooms before we handed over any cash and there were none of the creepy crawlys in sight.

Safely checked in, we went exploring. I think that Johan's favourite town was Ollantaytambo but mine so far is definately Pisaq. True, it doesn't actually feel as if you will turn a corner and encounter a real Inca (actually you do as the folk of Ollantaytambo are direct descendents of the Incas) but the streets are narrow and clearly for foot traffic and kept very clean, and the shops sell things like shampoo and granola bars...

Tomorrow's adventure will be a day of ruins as we explore the Sacred Valley...

An Inka village

We have now spent the last couple of nights in a lovely, genuine Inka (using the olde tyme spelling of the word) village called Ollantaytambo affectionately known as Ollanta by the locals.

It's a beautiful and interesting quaint little place and as you walk along the narrow cobbled streets (yes the Incas did cobbles), you can't help imagining what it would have been like so long ago. There are still Inca doorways and walls standing from those days that are still in use today, in fact, that makes up quite a big part of the village.

Yesterday, the rains cleared up and we went for a walk through the village then followed the signs up the mountainside to explore some Inca ruins left open and free to look around. Apparantly the really interesting ruins are found on the adjacent mountain which you need to pay to enter. Maybe we'll do that tomorrow.

Sadly, the good fortune that we had throughout most of the trip seems to have run out as I became ill once again last night, so we couldn't visit Richard's company today :( I'm feeling much better now but it might be vegetables and dry crackers for me for a few days...