Bomba de Tiempo

One of the things we were instructed not to miss in Buenos Aires was Bomba de Tiempo. Before we got here we did not even know what this was, not surprising as all the information we found on this online was in Spanish and its not in the guidebooks either. Instead it was some locals and other travellers that led us to it. Felix did mention when we were at the Boca Juniors game that rumor had it that the same guys that do the drumming in the stadium also have a show somewhere in town. That would explain why the music at the staduim is so good, but after having been to the shgow, I am pretty sure that might not be 100% accurate. The drummers at the stadium were realy good and they might just be a part of the Bomba de Tiempo crew, but the show was so much more.

At first when we got there there was a small group of people seated infront of the main stage drumming away. They were also accompanied by a backrow of cowbells, rattlers and grater-and-combs. I'm sure those are not their technical names, but hey its not my field, they were making noise and they were not drums.

Anyway, this assembly was serving as the warmup band and it did what it was supposed to, people were getting into the samba rythm and there was dancing going on all around the place, though most (us included) were seated enjoying their 1-litre servings of beer in the later afternoon heat. It was quite interesting to see the interaction between the band and the conductor. It seemed like the conductor would set the rythm in the beginning then the ensuing 10-15 minutes were based on spur of the moment decisions. He would increase the pace by jumping, alter the volume of some by raising or lowering his hands and have the different sides alternate by ponting at them. All preceded by a series of hand signals , nods and shakes of heads that seemed like mix between an auction and a negotiation. "I want you guys on the right to play 3 quick beats then you on the right play 5, ok? And you guys at the back go silent, sound " And they continued playing like that until they further instructions. And it was really really good.

Then the main act turned up, and it turns out it was more of the same, only a better. You could tell these guys had done this a few times, there was a lot more of handsignalling going on, and the combinations and interaction by the differnt parts of the ensemble were that little more intricate. By this time the entire crowd were on their feet dancing away, they even managed to get all of the white non-dreadlocked section of the crowd dancing (the dreadlocked part was probably dancing way before any music started so thats not really an achievement, is it??). They even introduced two guest acts - an opera singer and a guy playing a rock influenced electric guitar, and it was all really quite impressive. Everything down to their identical uniforms.

It was quite an experience, the entire place was a big samba party, people were dancing everywhere, others were holding their own personal beat-boxing concerts after the main act finished and it seemed like music would keep pouring out of the speakers until very very late. Or early, judging by the Argentinian schedule. We however decided to leave that to the youngsters and head back to our hostel for a quiet beer and call it a good night out.